"What started more than 65 years ago as an exam for the UK wine trade is now a globally recognised title collectively held by a worldwide family of 450 Masters of Wine in 30 countries." One of them is Nicolas Quillé, Chief Winemaking and Operations Officer at Crimson Wine Group. He also is the Co-author of Understanding Wine Technology (4th edition) and he was named as one of the 2022 wine industry leaders by Wine Business Monthly.
Nicolas regularly shares his thoughts on his linkedin account. Last year, he provided in a most interesting 3-part series a concise overview of German wine, including a review of German labeling regulations.
Nicolas Quillé (MW): Overview of German Wine - Regions, Grape Varieties and New Labeling Rules
Earlier this year, he released two postings on linkedin with regard to Austria.
I am re-releasing Nicolas Quillé's "Austrian Wine" linkedin
posts below as published on his linkedin account.
I met Nicolas in 2011 at a wine conference in Oregon (Oregon Pinot Gris Symposium at Oak Knoll Winery in Hillsboro), when he was running the Pacific Rim Estate, founded by icon Randall Grahm, and since then we have stayed in touch.
Austrian Wines - Part I
Austrian wine
producers have achieved astonishing progress over the past 50 years.
They have created comprehensive and ever more thoughtful winegrowing
regulations that have contributed to Austria’s solid wine reputation and
their global commercial success. Today, Austria punches high above its
1% of global wine production.
Austrian vineyards are located on
the eastern side of the country, away from the cold Alps and embracing
its warmer eastern borders. The climate of east Austria is resolutely
continental (warm summer, cold winters) and influenced by the vast
Pannonian plain.
The vineyards are dominated by white grapes (70%
of plantings) with Grüner Veltliner (1/3 of all plantings),
Welschriesling, Riesling and Chardonnay leading. The most planted red
grapes include Zweigelt, Blaufrankish and Merlot. These seven grape
varieties represent 71% of all Austrian plantings.
In general,
Austrian wines are primarily whites and the white wines are semi
aromatic (Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc), or fully aromatic (Riesling).
There is often a streak of minerality and purity in Austrian wines, with
little new oak on white and red wines. although ambitious red wine
producers have sometimes over applied new oak (like everywhere in the
world this trend is fortunately reversing). Botrytis notes (saffron,
ginger) are possible with dry whites (Wachau Smaragd styles for example)
and the ability to develop noble rot leads to the production of
excellent dessert wines. There is less presence of residual sugar than
in Germany (although this comparison is less obvious than in the past as
German wines “dries out”), and the acidities are elevated and preserved
by the continental diurnal temperature swing. Austrian white wines can
show a certain phenolic kick and a high dry extract (salty minerality)
mid-palate, which provides structure. The winemaking is modern and
precise: Austria is the old-world equivalent of New Zealand.
Grüner Veltliner is the Austrian flagship grape and it makes a range of white wines. The variety shows faint aromas of celery stick, grapefruit pith, white pepper and dry lentils, and can be light on the palate, although it is best known for its full body expression. Grüner is used to produce the full range of white wines from sparkling (Sekt), to dry whites, and to Trockenbeerenauslese (botrytized sweet wines). Welschriesling (aka Grasevina in Croatia) often makes neutral quaffable white wines and finds its way widely as a blending partner. Zweigelt is a cross between Blaufrankish and Sankt Laurent, and it produces deeply colored red wines with intense juicy black cherry fruit and an appetizing mouthfeel of vibrant acidity and velvety tannins. Blaufrankish produces spicy peppery reds that are made in a variety of styles from fruity light reds to seriously concentrated ones.
Austrian Wines - Part 2
Austria is divided into four large regions of origin that match political regions: Lower Austria (Niederösterreich), Vienna (Wein), Styria (Steiermark), & Burgenland. Smaller designation of origin, named DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus), have been carved within. A review of the regions:
#Niederösterreich
is the largest producer (62% of plantings) & its most planted
varieties are Grüner Veltliner (GV), Zweigelt, Riesling &
Welshriesling (73% of plantings). There are two main climatic zones: the
warm Pannonian plain in the southeast & the hilly center west that
is cooled down by alpine breezes. The main areas are:
- The
eastern trio of top quality DAC made, from west to east, of Wachau,
Kremstal and Kamptal. Wachau vineyards are planted on steep terraces
along the Danube river. An additional designation based on grape
ripeness levels may be referenced on labels (Steinfeder <11.5% ABV,
Federspiel between 11.5 & 12.5%, Smaragd >12.5%). Warmer Kamptal
offers the fruitiest wines, but also elevated acidities that are perfect
from sparkling winemaking.
- Weinvertel is the volume workhorse of Austria and is producing large quantities of GV.
- The
South (from west to east): Traiseintal, Wagram, Thermenregion (waiting
for DAC status), and Carnuntum. The Eastern DAC (Thermenregion,
Carnuntum) are starting to feel like Burgenland and red grapes dominate
there.
#Burgenland
(27% of plantings) is primarily planted with Zweigelt, Blaufrankish,
Welshriesling, & Chardonnay (55% of region). This a warm region
perfect for reds. Incredible dessert style wines are also produced
(Ruster Ausbruch for example), especially around the Neusiedlersee, a
shallow lake with beneficial fog influence. Burgenland is divided into 4
DAC: Neusiedlersee, Leithaberg, Mittelburgenland. and Eisenberg.
#Steiermark
(12%) top four varieties are Sauvignon Bl., Welshriesling, Pinot blanc
(aka Weisser Burgunder), and Muskateller. The climate is influenced here
by the proximity of the Mediterranean coast (130 miles away). There are
3 separate regions dominated by volcanic soils: Weststeiermark known
for its schilcher rosé (Shilcher = local name for Blauer Wildbacher
grape), Sudsteirmark (Sauvignon Bl.), and Vulkanland (Muskateller).
The
region around Wein grows 1% of all grapes, primarily GV, Riesling,
Chardonnay and Weisser Burgunder. Their compelling field blend,
“Gemischter Satz”, (3 varieties mini) is raised to DAC status.
There
are 18 Austrian DAC currently. Additional origin labeling on DAC wines
can indicate a region (Gebietswein), a village (Ortswein), or a single
vineyard (Riedewein). Finally, Austria has developed a serious sparkling
wine (Sekt) pyramid of quality and offers good value for money for its
top méthodes traditionelles. There are three levels based on the length
of aging on yeast lees: Klassik (9 months mini), Reserve (18 months),
and Grand Reserve (30 months) – Kamptal is the center of excellence for
Sekt currently.
Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours took place from Sunday, May 28 - Thursday, June 08, 2023. We toured Austria for 12 days, starting and ending in Vienna: Wien, Wagram, Carnuntum, Burgenland, Steiermark, Wachau, Kamptal, Kremstal, Traisental, Wien.
Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours - Published and Forthcoming Postings
ombiasy WineTours: Wine Tour Schedule 2023 - Austria, Germany/East, Burgundy/ Champagne, Germany/ North
Announcement: Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours - 12 Days: May 28 - June 08, 2023
The Wines of Austria - Presentation by Annette Schiller, ombiasy WineTours, at the 2021 American Wine Society National Conference in Atlantic City
Wine Producer Austria - Not Only Gruener Veltliner
Summary: Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Schiller’s Favorite Spots to Drink Wine in Vienna, Austria
Dinner at an Iconic Beisl in Vienna: Griechenbeisl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour of the Monastery/ Palace Klosterneuburg and of the Weingut Klosterneuburg, with Wine Tasting - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Wiener Schnitzel and Tafelspitz at Plachutta in der Wollzeile, Vienna. Plachutta is more than a Restaurant: it is a Vienna Institution - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
After Dinner Drinks at Vis-a-Vis Wine Bar, Vienna - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Vienna: Viaker City Tour and Tour of Schloss Schönbrunn - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at Restaurant Die Seejungfrau in Jois at Lake Neusiedl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Leo Hillinger, Burgenland, with Jakob Scharner, Diplom-Sommelier - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour, Vineyard Tour and Tasting at Weingut Netzl, Carnuntum, with Franz, Christine and Christina Netzl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Lunch at Restaurant Mole West at Lake Neusiedl - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Anita and Hans Nittnaus, Burgenland, with Anita, Hans and Martin Nittnaus - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Umathum, Burgenland, with Joseph Umathum - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
2 Nights at Schloss Halbturn at Lake Neusiedl: Sekt Reception and two Dinners - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Steindorfer, Burgenland, with Ernst and Roland Steindorfer - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Light Lunch at Gránátos Étterem at Esterházy Kástely in Fertöd, Hungary: Hungarian Goulash Soup and Esterházy Cake - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
At the Liszt House in Raiding, where the Great Pianist, Romantic Composer and Conductor was Born - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Straka, Rechnitz, Burgenland, with Thomas Straka - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
High-end Sleeping and Eating in the Vineyard: Wohnothek am Ratschen and Restaurant am Ratschen (16/ 20 Gault Millau), Deutsch-Schützen - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tasting at Weingut Wachter-Wiesler, Burgenland, with Julia Wachter - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
Tour, Tasting and Lunch at Weingut Jalits, Burgenland, with Mathias Jalits
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Neumeister, Steiermark, with Christoph Neumeister
Dinner with a View at Hotel Weinrefugium, Steiermark
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Sattlerhof, Steiermark, with Justė Sattler
Visit: Gerhard Wohlmuth sen. and his Weingut Wohlmuth in Austria
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Wohlmuth, Steiermark
Lunch and Tasting at Buschenschank Weingut Trummer, Steiermark, with Jürgen Trummer
Tasting at Weingut Polz, Steiermark, with Sommelier Philipp Heidenbauer
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Tement, Steiermark, with Sommelier Andy Bodor
Lunch at Restaurant Magnothek/ Weingut Tement, Südsteiermark
Gustav Mahler, Sinfonie Nr.3 at Graz Opera, Steiermark
In Eisenstadt, Burgenland: Tour at Haydn House, Lunch at Restaurant Henrici, Tour at Esterhazy Castle
At Loisium Wine & Spa Resort Langenlois, Kamptal: Impromptu Steininger Sekt Reception with Eva Steininger and Klaus Wittauer
Wine-pairing Dinner at Heurigenhof Bründlmeyer with Chef Jan Pfeiffer, 15.5 Point Gault Millau
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Steininger, Kamptal, with Brigitta Steininger
The Wines of Stefanie and Alwin Jurtschitsch, Weingut Jurtschitsch, Kamptal, Austria
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Stephanie and Alwin Jurtschitsch, Kamptal, with Alwin Jurtschitsch
Lunch at Braugasthaus zum Fiakerwirtin Langenlois, Kamptal
Tasting at Weingut Markus Huber, Traisental, with Markus Huber
2 Days in Dürnstein, Wachau, at Hotel Richard Löwenherz
Martin Mittelbach
from the "Tegernseehof" and Klaus Wittauer from "KWSelection" Presented
Tegernseehof Wines and Stefan Trummer and Chef Austin Fausett from
“Trummer’s on Main” in Clifton Austrian Appetizers at the Austrian
Embassy in Washington DC, USA
Vineyard Walk and Tasting at Weingut Tebernseerhof, Wachau, with Owner/ Winemaker Martin Mittelbach
Tour and Tasting at Domäne Wachau, Dürnstein, Wachau
Tasting and Dinner at Weingut Nigl, Kremstal, 13.5 Points Gault Millau
Vintage 2011 Tasting with Lucas Pichler, Weingut F.X. Pichler, with Dirk Wuertz at his Koenigsmuehle in Rheinhessen, Austria/Germany
Tour and Tasting at Weingut F.X.Pichler, Wachau, with Lucas Pichler
Tasting at Weingut Matthias Hager, Kamptal, with Doris Hager
Lunch at Gasthaus Gutmann, Zöbing, Kamptal
Tour and Tasting at Weingut Schloss Gobelsburg, Kamptal, with Stefan Tabery
Cellar Tour and Tasting at Weingut Anita and Hans Nittnaus, Burgenland, with Anita, Hans and Martin Nittnaus - Austria 2023 by ombiasy WineTours
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