Tasting 14 Wines at Al's (August 2023)

 

Al Guber likes to invite wine aficiniados over to his home in Bristow, Virginia, to taste some good wines. This time, in August 2023, we were able to join. 

We were a small group:

Al Guber, host, former President of the American Wines Society,

Bill Stefan, current President of the American Wine Society,

Grant Crandall, President of the Atlantic Seaboard Wine Association,

Kevin Ringham,  

Annette Schiller, ombiasy WineTours,

Christian Schiller, schiller-wine blog and Vice-President of the German Wine Society (Wahington DC Chapter)

The Wines

We had 14 bottles of wine.

1984 Domaine Aufray, Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru 

I found the almost 40 years old Chablis grand cru drinkable, an aged senior citicen, but the group thought the wine was beyond that point.

1982 Dom Pérignon, Moët & Chandon 

Oxydized, but still bubbly. The current avarage price of the 1982 Dom Pérignon according to wine-searcher is US$1599.

1989 Domaine Chante Cigale, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

 

1992 Alain Jaume & Fils Domaine Grand Veneur, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

 

Last year, we spent half a day at Domaine Grand Veneur. Owner Hélène Jaume was our host:

Vineyard and Cellar Tour at Vignobles Alain Jaume, Domaine Grand Veneur, with Hélène Jaume in Courthézon, Châteauneuf-du-Pape - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France 

 

Wine-pairing Lunch at La Table d’Alain Jaume with Hélène Jaume at Domaine Grand Veneur in Courthézon, Châteauneuf-du-Pape - Rhône Valley Tour 2022 by ombiasy WineTours: Wine, Culture and History, France

 

2020 Booker Vineyard, Vertigo, Paso Robles, California

1992 Winzergenossenschaft Vier Jahreszeiten, Wachenheimer Königswingert, Bad Dürkheim, Scheurebe, Beerenauslese

The wine was dark brown. Produced by a co-op, but still a rare wine.

We discussed that in Germany it is legal to add sweet reserve (sterilized juice) to the finished wine - at both Qualitätswein level and Qualitätswein mit Prädikat level - to increase the remaining sweetness in the wine. 

Julia Sevenich: Süssreserve is the German term used to refer to unfermented grape juice that is used to sweeten a wine AFTER fermentation to soften acidity.

Its use in Germany is allowed for all quality wines including the wines predicated Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Trockenbeerenauslese and Eiswein. In Austria, its use is prohibited for predicated wines.

In the past, Süssreserve was preserved by adding high doses of sulphur dioxide. Today it typically undergoes near sterile filtration and cold stabilization to precipitate tartrates. It is stored refrigerated for up to 12 months.

The practice of sweetening wines post fermentation has decreased significantly. Most producers that wish to intervene in residual sugar content of a wine prefer to arrest fermentation before all the sugars have been converted to alcohol. Adding süssreserve also changes the composition of sugars. During fermentation glucose is fermented more quickly than fructose. A halted fermentation will thus render a wine with residual sugar comprised mainly of fructose, while the use of süssreserve will yield a wine with a residual sweetness comprised of both glucose and fructose.

2009 Weingut Heidemanns-Bergweiler, Bernkasteler Badstube, Riesling, Auslese, Mosel

Again, not an elite wine producer, widely available in the USA at Total. 

2008 Weingut Lützkendorf, Karsdorfer Hohe Gräte, Riesling Spätlese, Saale Unstrut

Annette and I brought 2 wines. One was a Spätlese from the late Uwe Lützkendorf, made in Saale Unstrut, Germany, in a renaturalized brown coal open pit in the former East Germany. 

We thought it was a sweet-style wine, but it was a wine fully fermented to dryness. In the future, an error like this can not happen any more. Under the new German Wine Law of 2021, w with a Prädikat are sweet. Previously, wines with a Prädikat could be dry or sweet.

Tasting at Weingut Uwe Lützkendorf, with Uwe Lützkendorf, in Bad Kösen, Saale-Unstrut – Germany-East Tour 2017 by ombiasy WineTours

2019 Château Haut-Bages-Libéral, 5e cru classé, grand vin, Pauillac

1996 Moulin de Duhart, Château Duhart-Milon, 4e cru classé, second wine, Pauillac

2018 Weingut Schneitmann, Simonroth Cuvee MC, Württemberg, Germany 

An ultra-premium Bordeaux blend from Stuttgart, Germany, made by Rainer Schnaitmann. MC stands for Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

The wine,  wrapped up in a brown bag, left an excellent impression on the goup but nobody could guess that this was a wine from Württemberg, Germany.

At Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann with Rainer Schnaitmann. See: Vineyard Tour, Cellar Tour and Tasting with Rainer Schnaitmann at Weingut Rainer Schnaitmann in Fellbach, Württemberg – Germany-East Wine and Art Tour by ombiasy WineTours (2015), Germany 

2012 Guerrieri Rizzardi Lugana, 3 Cru, Amarone

Annette`s Comments on Facebook

Excellent, very unique tasting. I very much appreciate aged wines and this tasting hit the spot for me. Thanks Al for organizing this. My favorites were the two CdP: the 1989 Chante Cigale and the Domaine Grand Veneur. The two Bordeaux wines had also aged gracefully: the Moulin Duhart 1996 ( second wine of Chateau Duhart Milon ) and the Chateau Haut Bage Liberal were delicious. Unfortunately the Champagne Dom Perignon 1982 was oxidized, but what an honor to even taste such a historic bottle.

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Dinner at Restaurant Le Relais de Saulx in Beaune, with the Couple Charles Danet, Chef, and Agnès Peyre, Service, 12/ 20 Points Gault Millau - From Lyon to Paris: Total Immersion in Burgundy and Champagne 2023 by ombiasy WineTours

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When we went for dinner to Le Relais de Saulx in Beaune, with the Couple Charles Danet, Chef, and Agnès Peyre, Service, 12/ 20 Points Gault Millau, we had quite a busy day behind us:

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Le Relais de Saulx in Beaune

 

Le Relais de Saulx in Beaune was a recommendation of Dirk Eisel, our gourmet friend from Frankfurt. Before moving to Beaune in 2020, Charles Danet and Agnès Peyre were in Paris at Le Timbre. 

The concept of Le Timbre in Paris and Le Relais de Saulx in Beaune are quite similar. At both restaurants, you’ll find two people, and two people only: chef Charles Danet, and front-of-the-house Agnès Peyre, and they’re co-owners and do everything themselves.

 

Dirk Eisel had discovered the couple Charles Danet and Agnès Peyre in Paris a number of years ago and had been a regular at their Restaurant Le Timbre in Paris. If I remember correctly he event went to Paris for dinner at Le Timbre on the day they closed in Paris and went to Beaune for dinner at Le Relais de Saulx for their opening night.

Le Relais de Saulx in Beaune - MICHELIN Guide’s Point Of View

This characterful establishment (1673) in the heart of Beaune not far from the Hospices, has been taken over by Charles Danet, formerly of the Parisian Timbre. It would be an understatement to say that he hasn’t lost any time fitting into Burgundy! His hallmark signature shines through the market-fresh, wholesome menu that he himself defines as “homemade seasonal cooking”.

Le Relais de Saulx in Beaune - L'avis de Gault&Millau (12/20)

Au cœur du Beaune sage, viticole et bourgeois, le Relais de Saulx reste un bistrot trublion qui affiche sa modernité et son style un brin décalé. Agnès Peyre et Charles Danet, qui ont succédé à Olivier Streiff, entretiennent savamment cette petite musique décalée, dans ce cadre de matériaux bruts un peu indus, dans l'ambiance sans parti pris d'une clientèle urbaine venue d'un peu partout, et dans une cuisine bien dans son époque qui revendique ses origines : maquereau de Lorient grenailles et pickles d'échalote sur un coulis cerfeuil persil coriandre, pintade fermière de Bourgogne, le filet rôti, une farce légère, navets et jus à l'ail noir, maigre de ligne de Saint-Jean-de-Luz, cochon de la ferme de Clavisy… Le menu du moment est à 49 €, avec un gentil dessert de cuisinier (poire yaourt glacé au pollen) et une cave plaisante, cherchant les vignerons de caractère.

 

Agnès Peyre et le chef Charles Danet se sont séparés de leur établissement parisien, Le Timbre le 28 février 2020, soit quinze jours avant le premier confinement, avec l'objectif de s'installer dans une région viticole - www.lhotellerie-restauration.fr 

 

Attirés par Toulouse ou le Jura, c'est finalement à Beaune que le couple s'est fixé fin 2021 en reprenant la suite d'Olivier Streiff, encien candidat de Top Chef, propriétaire du Relais de Saulx depuis cinq ans. Ouvert en septembre 2021, l'établissement a été entièrement redécoré dans des tonalités plus claires mais aussi réaménagé avec une grande table centrale pouvant accueillir de deux à huit couverts. Précédemment ouvert à 26 convives, le Relais accueille désormais18 couverts maximum, “afin de faire moins mais bien”, précise Agnès Peyre en charge du service. Charles Danet propose une cuisine bistronomique et locale faite de produits de saison, une carte courte et évolutive, changeant toutes les trois semaines et un menu du midi.

Le Timbre, in Paris – Because the French capital is cramped and fast-paced, so should the best places to eat in Paris 

June 26, 2023Cedric Lizotte6

PARIS, France – Eating in Paris is not an easy task. There are hundreds of wonderful establishments scattered around the city. Certain neighborhoods have it better than others do. There are clichés and tourist traps everywhere. And then, there are young chefs working their tails off to offer inventive food at a fair price. I think Le Timbre should be put on top of the list of best places to eat in Paris.

In this series of articles, Cédric Lizotte visits some of the best restaurants in Europe. From France to Switzerland via the Czech Republic, here are the best places to sample the delights of some of the best chefs on the planet. Follow it with the hashtag #CedricInEurope.

The question of where to eat in Paris might lead to certain common answers. Some of the most sought-after restaurants in Paris—by tourists that is—namely the ultra-classic Rotonde, the archetypal Relais de l’Entrecôte, the characteristic Dôme and the textbook Coupole, are all in the same neighborhood: Montparnasse. However, astute diners might find that these places are overpriced and overrated.

Instead, head to Le Timbre, a tiny restaurant held by chef Charles Danet and front-of-the-house Agnès Peyre. There, you’ll find an almost-fixed menu of great, modern, carefully plated, delicious dishes. Chef Danet prepares everything himself.

Yep! I’m quoting myself! Cheap, right? It’s from this overview article I wrote on behalf of Air Transat.

I’m reproducing these words on here simply because I want to point out that the best places to eat in Paris necessitate a certain amount of research. It’s clearly not akin to finding a needle in a hay stack (because that’s a stupid saying anyway, just set the haystack on fire and you’ll find your needle). No, it’s more like getting ready for a job interview: if you only cover the basics, you’re doing it wrong.

There are more than 1400 restaurants included in the Michelin guide for Paris only. It’s a good starting point, but it’s not good enough.

What you need, is good friends who are locals… or The Fine Dining Blog.

Best Places To Eat In Paris – Le Timbre: The Restaurant

At Le Timbre, you’ll find two people, and two people only: chef Charles Danet, and front-of-the-house Agnès Peyre, and they’re co-owners and do everything themselves.

The name means “the stamp”, as in postage stamp, and it’s for good reason: it’s absolutely tiny, cramped; leaving your table to head to the bathroom is just as complicated as doing so on an airplane; Ms. Peyre looks like a ballet dancer swooshing between the tables. The décor is all woods, and blackboards, and old tiles, and old-fashioned metal chairs.

The most impressive thing about this tiny restaurant is the fact that chef Danet is by himself to tend the two services of 20 seats. Just like at le Cézanne in Munich, all the food is prepared ahead of time and assembled at the last second. Isn’t sous-vide cooking wonderful?

And the food itself is methodical and delicious. This includes a green apple, avocado and raw bonito first course: acidic, sweet, fatty, light-tasting. And a very nice leg of lamb with potato purée and a few vegetables.

But the dish that made my heart sing was the the ris d’agneau, lamb sweetbreads, with a tasty parmesan espuma on top. The sweetbreads were crisp on the outside, supercreamy on the inside, and the slight iodine taste of the offal was playing against the wine, a Coteaux du Giennois, Champ Gibault, 2014, by Florian Roblin.

Of course, the desserts were on the simpler side, with the one-man-band and all. I had the luxury to taste two of them, but what wowed me the most, was the choice of dessert wine by Ms. Peyre: Domaine Elodie Balme, Rasteau, vin doux naturel. It’s woody, sweet, and the aftertaste is very chalky, which doesn’t make much sense considering the syrupy texture of the wine. Ah, the French terroir and all of its surprises!

One last note: if you can’t get in le Timbre – it wouldn’t be surprising since they only have 20 seats and they’re usually reserved well in advance – try Wajda, which is a block away. It’s great too!

Arriving at Le Relais de Saulx in Beaune

Menu

Annette had chosen with Charles Danet and Agnès Peyre the following menu ahead of our visit.

Dinner

Like at Le Timbre in Paris at Le Relais de Saulx in Beaune, the restaurant staff consists of only two people: chef Charles Danet, and front-of-the-house Agnès Peyre. The maximum dinners served is limited at 18. As a result, of course, service is slow by American standards. 

Bye-bye

Annette and I stayed a bit behind and talked with Charles and Agnès about their experience sofar in the Bourgogne, compared to Paris.

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