City of Bordeaux “TwittWineParty” Coming Up on February 21, 2013

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller at Chateau Pape Clement (named after Pope Clement V, who ordered its original vineyards to be planted in the 14th century). Interestingly, Chateau Pape Clement is within the city limits of Bordeaux and well within the Bordeaux beltway.

See more:
Château Pape Clément in Pessac-Léognan and the World Wide Wine Empire of Bernard Magrez, France

The City of Bordeaux is organizing a twitter meeting on Thursday, February 21. The organizers: “This event deals with wine, in all its dimensions. The purpose is to gather a wide community and engage people in sharing their thoughts and experiences about wine. This event, the “TwittWineParty” will bring together wine lovers, but will also catch the attention of a wider audience, sometimes convinced that the wine universe is too complex or unreachable. The talks will not focus on a specific wine, but will deal with any wine, vineyards, terroir.

On the same day, we will set up in Bordeaux a tasting party, in the Bordeaux Interprofessional Wine Council’s bar. If by chance you were in France at that time, we would be happy to welcome you.”

The twitter handle is @twittwineparty and the hashtag is #twpbx.

The City of Bordeaux

The City of Bordeaux is a jewel, with vestiges from the Roman era and medieval town gates.  However, the 18th century was its golden age. Victor Hugo once said: “Take Versailles, add Antwerp, and you have Bordeaux.”

Bordeaux is often referred to as "Little Paris". Baron Haussmann, a long-time prefect of Bordeaux, used Bordeaux’s 18th century, big-scale rebuilding as a model when he was asked by Emperor Napoleon III to transform a then still quasimedieval Paris into a “modern” capital that would make France proud.

Picture: Bordeaux at Night

The city was ruled by the English for a long time, which is why Bordeaux seems to have an "English flair". After the marriage of Henry II to Eleanor of Aquitaine, Bordeaux came under English rule between 1152 and 1453. It was then that the British first developed their taste for Claret, as the red Bordeaux wine is called in the UK.

The city has recently been classified by UNESCO as an “outstanding urban and architectural ensemble”. Bordeaux has a million inhabitants, including a lively university community of over 60,000.

Picture: Bordeaux in the Morning

Bordeaux is a flat city, built on the left banks of the Garonne. The Garonne merges a dozen kilometers below the city with the Dordogne to form the Gironde, which is biggest estuary in France.

See also:
In the Wine Capital of the World: the City of Bordeaux, France

Bordeaux City Vineyards

The outskirts of the city of Bordeaux are the birthplace of the phenomenal Bordeaux wine boom. It was here – in the Graves - that the region first gained its reputation, as early as the 14th century – hundreds of years before Dutch wine merchants and producers drained the marshes of the Medoc. In the Middle Ages, much of the Claret - as red Bordeaux is called in the United Kingdom - shipped to London was grown within in easy distance to the Quai de Chartrons in Bordeaux.

For centuries, Graves encompassed all the vineyards south of the border with the Medoc, in a great sweep around the city of Bordeaux with the exception of the sweet wine appellations of Sauternes, Cerons and Barsac, which are nestled within the boundaries of the Graves, but are independently recognized because of their outstanding noble-sweet white wines. But in 1987, the Pessac-Leognan appellation was carved out of the northern end of the Graves, encompassing Graves’ most respected producers.  The four key producers in Pessac-Leognan are Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion (both in American hands), Laville Haut-Brion and Pape Clement (named after Pope Clement V, who ordered its original vineyards to be planted in the 14th century).

Interestingly, these chateaux are within the city limits of Bordeaux and well within the Bordeaux beltway. This is the most urban wine area I have seen in Bordeaux and perhaps in the whole world. Indeed, the vineyards of Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion, Laville Haut-Brion and Pape Clement are surrounded by suburban development.

Plateau des Fruits de Mer and Arcachon

Bordeaux City is also an excellent place for fruits de mer. Remember, to the west of Bordeaux is the Atlantic Ocean and the sea-side town of Arcachon, noted for its oyster production. Near Arcachon is the biggest sand dune in Europe.

Picture: Plateau des Fruits de Mer

See also:
Plateau des Fruits de Mer and a Pessac-Leognan Wine in Bordeaux City, France

Schiller’s Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux City

Here are my favorite wine bars in Bordeaux.

Bar á Vin - The Wine Bar in the Maison de Bordeaux

An excellent place to enjoy Bordeaux from different regions by the glass is the Bar á Vin, the wine bar in the Maison de Bordeaux (of the Conseil Interprofessionnel Du Vin De Bordeaux (C.I.V.B.)), right across the street from the Tourist Office and just across the tramway tracks from the main Quinconces Square. However, if you interested in wines in the higher price categories, do not go there, as the Bar a Vin only serves Petites Bordeaux.

Picture: Bar á Vin

Max Bordeaux Wine Gallery

I have not yet been to Max Bordeaux Wine Gallery, but my friend and Bordeaux Guru Allan Liska recommends it highly. It is a sleek tasting bar with an enomatic system containing wines of the 400 producers or so that are known all over the world.

Aux Quatres Coins Du Vin

The other wine bar that comes highly recommended and where I have not yet been is Aux Quatres Coins Du Vin. Like Max Bordeaux Wine Gallery, wines are also dispensed with the enomatic system and, more like Le Bar a Vin, this cute wine bar offers more affordable wines. Unlike both Le Bar a Vin and Max Bordeaux Wine Gallery, its selection includes also non-Bordeaux. Aux Quatres Coins Du Vin also serves cheese and charcuterie platters.

Address: 8 rue de la Devise

Wine and Soul

Located at 23 rue du Couvent, near the Quai, Wine and Soul comes also highly recommended by Allan Liska: “It has a very cozy feel to it, with signs of music and wine all over the walls. The wine selection is excellent. The food is also excellent with an assortment of tapas a well as traditional French faire. Of course, what makes any bar great is the people and here Wine and Soul really excels. The guys that run the bar are passionate about the wine they serve and are genuinely friendly. If you are looking for someplace to have an enjoyable evening of wine and food I highly recommend Wine and Soul.”

Wine and Soul

L’Intendant

L’Intendant is a spectacularly designed wine shop, opposite the Grand Théâtre. The centerpiece of it is a spiral staircase that winds up the narrow profile of the shop. Wrap-around shelves with bottles of wine curl up to the top of the building along the staircase. Most of the wine stocked in this store are ultra-premium Bordeaux wines.

See also:
Schiller's Favorite Wine Bars in Bordeaux (City), France

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An Afternoon with Owner Michel Tesseron at Château Lafon-Rochet, 4ème Cru Classé en 1855, in Saint-Estèphe, Bordeaux

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Michel Tesseron at  Château Lafon-Rochet in Saint-Estèphe

I recently met Basile Tesseron, who is in charge of Château Lafon-Rochet, in Washington DC, USA at the French Embassy. This time, the tasting took place at Château Lafon-Rochet in Saint-Estèphe and the event was led by Basile’s father, Michel Tesseron.

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Château Lafon-Rochet

Château Lafon-Rochet is a 4th Grand Cru en 1855 in the Saint-Estèphe appellation of the Medoc. It is one of the 5 classified properties in the appellation of Saint Estèphe. Its grounds are separated from those of Château Lafite to the north by the width of the road and from Cos d'Estournel by a dirt path.

Pictures: Château Lafon-Rochet

History

The history of Chateau Lafon-Rochet starts in the 16th century, when a portion known as Rochet (because of its rocky terrain) eventually passed by marriage to Etienne de Lafon, who established Lafon-Rochet. The estate then passed down through the Lafon generations for almost 300 years.

Pictures: Michel Tesseron

When Guy Tesseron became the owner in 1959, it needed a serious restoration and Guy Tesseron did restore it to its former glory. Guy Tesseron was from a Chanterais family, specializing in the Cognac production.

Guy Tesseron first put the vineyards back in order. He then built new chai, and a new château, in the style of the 18th century. Also, some 25 hectares were added to the vineyard.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Basile Tesseron at Lafon-Rochet and in Washington DC

In 1975, Guy Tesseron also acquired 5th growth Chateau Pontet-Canet from the Cruse family. Both châteaux subsequently passed to the next generation with Lafon-Rochet coming to Michel Tesseron. Currently the property is in the good hands of Michel’s son, Basil Tesseron.

Michel and Basile Tesseron

Before joining the family business in 1987, Michel Tesseron worked in in Cognac, then in Bordeaux for Barton & Guestier, and for the négociants Chantecaille.

It was Michel Tesseron who oversaw the painting of the château yellow in 2000. At the same time, the bottles were redesigned and matching yellow labels and capsules are used now.

Basile Tesseron took over with the 2007 vintage and he now has full control.

Vineyards and Wine Making

Lafon-Rochet's vineyards covers 45 hectares and are planted with Cabernet Sauvignon 54%, Merlot 40%, Cabernet Franc 4%, Petit Verdot 2%.

Pictures: The Vineyards

To match the 40 different vineyard parcels, the estate has 40 stainless steel, temperature controlled vats. The wine is kept in new oak barrels for 9 months before it is moved to one year old barrels, where it remains for an additional 9 months.  The final blending takes place 3 months before bottling.

Pictures: The Vats

The grand vin is Château Lafon-Rochet (11000 cases per annum), the second wine is Pélerins de Lafon-Rochet (also 11000 cases per annum and once known as Numéro 2 de Lafon-Rochet).

Pictures: The Barrels

Today, Basile Tesseron is steering Lafon-Rochet towards biodynamic viticulture, following the example of his uncle at Pontet-Canet. But Lafon-Rochet has not yet been certified.

Tasting

We ended up with a tasting of 3 wines.

Pictures: Tasting with Michel Tesseron

2005 Chateau Lafon Rochet

Plum, cherry, black fruits on the nose, very powerful, very tannic, still young.

Wine searcher average price: US$ 63

2009 Chateau Lafon Rochet

Notes of cassis, other dark fruits and graphite on the nose, firm, mouth filling tannins on the palate, medium to long finish.

Wine searcher average price: US$ 57

2007 Pélerins de Lafon-Rochet  

Excellent second, easier to drink wine, medium bodied, with loads of flavors on the palate, good finish.

Wine searcher average price: US$ 17

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Un análisis sobre el consumo de vino en el mundo entre 2007 y 2011 - An Analysis of Wine Consumption in the World between 2007 and 2011

Source: Economist, Mach 22, 2012

El analista Christian G.E. Schiller nos muestra un interesante análisis del consumo mundial de vino, apoyándose en un gráfico publicado oportunamente por The Economist. El mismo destaca la importancia de Estados Unidos como primer consumidor del mundo y la "locomotora" para el crecimiento que significan - juntos - este país con Rusia y China.

The analyst Christian G.E. Schiller shows an interesting analysis of world wine consumption, based on a chart published by the Economist. It highlights the importance of the U.S. as the world's biggest consumer and the "locomotive" for growth in the world wine market - together with Russia and China.

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The Economist publicó un gráfico muy interesante hace un tiempo, con los países consumidores de vino más importantes del mundo, con y sin burbujas.

La tabla incluye el consumo de vino per cápita, para 2011 y 2007, y el consumo total de vino, para el año 2011.

¿Quién consume vino? Los EE.UU. es el mayor mercado de vino del mundo. Los estadounidenses consumen más vino en 2011 que cualquier otro país.

Francia, Italia y Alemania están muy cerca, y cada mercado representa alrededor de 300 millones de cajas de vino al año.

Considerando que Francia e Italia tienen un alto (y decreciente) consumo per cápita, al igual que Alemania, aunque un poco más bajo, los EE.UU. consumen muy poco por habitante (sólo un poco más de 10 litros), pero hay un gran número de estadounidenses consumidores.

Además, el consumo de vino per cápita estadounidense está creciendo. Alrededor de la mitad del tamaño del mercado de los 4 países principales.

El Reino Unido es un gran consumidor, pero no produce casi nada. Todo es importado. El consumo per cápita es considerable, pero en una tendencia a la baja.

Por el contrario, el consumo per cápita chino es muy bajo, pero el número de consumidores es enorme. Por otra parte, el consumo per cápita tiene tendencia al alza. Si el consumo per cápita aumenta con sólo tanto como - por ejemplo - aumentó el consumo per cápita de Australia entre 2007 y 2001, China se convertirá en el mayor mercado de vino del mundo, superando a los EE.UU., Francia, Italia y Alemania.

A continuación, siguen 2 países con un consumo total de unos 100 millones de cajas: Argentina y Rusia. Rusia no produce casi nada, mientras que Argentina produce casi el 90% de lo que consume. A continuación hay 4 países con un mercado global de entre 40 y 50 millones de cajas: Portugal, con un muy alto consumo per cápita, y Australia, Canadá y Brasil.

Este último es de nuevo un poco como el caso de China: bajo consumo per cápita y una gran población. Finalmente, alrededor de 20 a 30 millones de cajas: Suiza, un habitante de alto consumo por país, que también produce vino, de los que exporta muy poco; Dinamarca, otro país de alto consumo por habitante, que importa todo; y Japón, un país de bajo consumo per cápita. En términos de crecimiento global: los EE.UU., China y Rusia están impulsando el crecimiento en el consumo mundial de vino, que ha aumentado un 3,5% desde el año 2007. El viejo mundo es un lastre para el crecimiento, el consumo per cápita está disminuyendo y en una población estancada.

Fuente:

Blog of Dr. Christian G.E. Schiller

Fecha de publicación: Lunes 28 de enero de 2013

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On February 1, 2013, I published on schiller-wine the article "Wine Consumption by Country: Total and Per Capita ".

The same day, Mexico-based Ricardo E. Brizuela published a Spanish version of my article in his "Diario del Vino - Noticias del Mundo del Vino en la Prensa Internacional" under the heading "Un análisis sobre el consumo de vino en el mundo entre 2007 y 2011"

http://www.diariodelvino.com/notas8/noticia0073_01feb13.htm

In the above, I am re-releasing the Spanish version on schiller-wine.

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Joachim Heger, Weingut Dr. Heger: Winemaker of the Year, Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013, Germany

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Joachim and Silvia Heger, Weingut Dr. Heger

Joachim Heger of Weingut Dr. Heger is the winemaker of the year - Gault Millau WeinGuide Deutschland 2013.

Joachim Heger and Weingut Dr. Heger

Joachim Heger has been in charge of winemaking at Weingut Dr. Heger since 1981, and, together with his wife Silvia, in charge of the whole estate since 1992. He has been a giant in German winemaking for some time and the award came in my view a bit late, but nevertheless fully deserved.

The estate lies in the Kaiserstuhl (literally: emperor’s chair), a small volcanic group of hills in the Upper Rhine Valley in southwest Germany, northwest of Freiburg. Joachim Heger’s hometown of Ihringen enjoys the highest average temperature in Germany. So, while some fine Riesling and Silvaner gets made here, it is really Pinot country.

History

Weingut Dr. Heger was established in 1935 by the grandfather of Joachim Heger, the rural doctor, Dr. Max Heger. His passion for wine and everything to do with wine was kindled by his patients, who were primarily wine growers, as well as his knowledge that the best conditions for wine growing were on the Kaiserstuhl in the south-western tip of Germany. Because of this, he bought prime areas of the well known sites Ihringer Winklerberg and Achkarrer Schlossberg.

From 1949 to the end of the 1980s, Dr. Heger‘s son Wolfgang Heger ran the estate. Joachim Heger took over responsibility for winemaking in 1981, and, together with his wife Silvia, for the winery in 1992.

The Dr. Heger estate is a member of the Association of German Predicate Wine Estates (Verband deutscher Prädikatsweingüter or VDP).

Weinhaus Heger and Weingut Fischer

In 1986, Joachim Heger started Weinhaus Heger. The vines are in the Thuniberg area and are under long-term lease contracts to Joachim Heger and are maintained by Weinhaus Heger. The wines are vinified in the cellar of Dr. Heger. The wines always offer great value.

Picture: Joachim Heger at Schloss Johannisberg 


In addition to the original Dr. Heger wine estate and Weinhaus Heger, Joachim and Silvia Heger’s sphere of influence also includes Weingut Fischer in Nimburg-Bottingen since 1997.  Here, Joachim Heger produces fine wines with typical Baden opulence.

Vineyards and Grape Varieties

The 3 main vineyards are: Freiburger Schlossberg (lively, nervy penetrating wines), Achkarrer Schlossberg (more forward, showy with lots of body and soil character), and Ihringer Winklerberg (finer, more elegant requiring more time).

The 21 hectares of vineyards are predominantly planted with Pinots Gris, Blanc and Noir, along with some Riesling and Silvaner, as well as the aromatic varieties Muscat, Scheurebe and Gewürztraminer, which all thrive wonderfully here.

In a move toward organic winemaking, Dr. Heger has retained Claude Bourguignon, the famed French agronomist, as a consultant.

In the cellar, Joachim Heger maintains the old tradition of using big wooden barrels to vinify the wines of the Pinot family, whilst using stainless steel for Riesling.

95% of wines are fermented dry. Joachim Heger: “We produce natural wines, which are suited to long ageing. For this it is necessary to have grapes which are sufficiently ripe. This means that for us the time of the harvest is determined not only by the must weight, but also, and more importantly, by the so-called physiological maturity.”

Grapes: 20%:  Riesling and Spätburgunder, 15%:  Silvaner, 10%: Pinot Gris (Ruländer / Grauburgunder), Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder) and Gewürztraminer.

Riesling (20%)

Joachim Heger: “Our single vineyard sites Ihringer Winklerberg and Achkarrer Schlossberg provide optimum conditions for the king of white wines. The weathered volcanic bedrock gives Riesling the mineral compounds it needs to be able to produce its fruity and richly aromatic bouquet and on the palate this Riesling shows typical varietal flavors.

In this southerly wineproducing region of Baden acidity is generally less pronounced than in the more northerly Riesling regions and this makes the wines fuller in body and more opulent.

Grauburgunder (10%)

Pictures: Joachim Heger and Caprice Horn at Gallery Caprice Horn, Berlin

The Pinot Gris wines from Ihringer Winklerberg and Achkarrer Schlossberg are characterised by a certain minerality, which gives elegance and finesse, despite the wines’ full body. Thanks to the richness of extract, typical of this grape variety, it is also possible to ferment and mature the wines in barriques as well as large oak casks.

Weissburgunder (10%)

The Pinot Blanc’s rich array of fine, fruity aromas come wonderfully to the fore when grown on the soils of the Winklerberg and Achkarrer Schlossberg. The bouquet suggests mirabelle plums and green apples and on the palate these continue, together with nuances of yellow pear. If the grapes are harvested at Spätlese oechsle levels, then they are also suitable for fermenting and maturing in barriques or large oak casks.

Silvaner (15%)

Ihringen is famous for its long tradition of producing Silvaner and, as a single location, it still has the largest vineyard area planted to Silvaner in Germany. In 1900 the proportion of this ancient variety here was around 70%. The elegantly fruity notes, delicate aromas of pear and gentle acidity are a perfect representation of the terroir of the Ihringen volcanic soils.

Spaetburgunder (20%)

The pale-fleshed variety Pinot Noir ripens to optimum maturity in the very warm sites of Ihringer Winklerberg and Achkarrer Schlossberg, thereby giving this typical ruby red color. The color must be obtained from the grape skins and this occurs during the classic fermentation on the skins, a method which not only takes a lot of time, but which is also a lot of work. The red wines are rich with concentrated extract, intensified by maturation in barriques. These wines are also characterized by their long ageing potential.”

Dr. Heger Estate / Weinhaus Heger
Bachenstrasse 19, 79241 Ihringen / Germany
e-mail: info@heger-weine.de
web: www.heger-weine.de

US importer:    
Rudi Wiest Selections by Cellars International
1780 La Costa Meadows Drive, Suite # 100
San Marcos, CA 92078
ph 760.566.0499 - fax 760.566.0533

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Picture: The Speakers, including Christian G.E. Schiller

In 2011, the German Wine Institute produced a video entitled "How to Pronounce German Wine’. The purpose of the video is to assist non-German wine lovers to pronounce the most important terms of German wines correctly. I was part of the project.

From A - Z, a number of prominent - like wine maker Dirk Wuertz and DWI Boss Monika Reule - and less prominent speakers pronounce 3 dozens or so of key German wine terms, like Spaetlese, Qualitaetswein and Spaetburgunder. It starts with Ahr and ends with Württemberg, two of Germany's wine regions. I am the speaker for Grauburgunder and Rheingau.

I wrote about the video and put it on schiller-wine, when it came out: Confused by German Wine Terminology?

Here is the direct link to the video: How to Pronunce German Wine

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Since abandoning a career in computer systems design in 1988 to indulge his two hobbies, wine and writing, Simon Woods has been co-coordinator of the annual International Wine Challenge, a columnist for The Financial Times ‘The Business’ magazine, editor of the award-winning annual Which? Wine Guide and a contributor to numerous magazines.

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La Universalidad de los Grandes Vinos, Argentina, France

Diario de Vino (Ricardo Brizuela) published on January 15, 2013:

La universalidad de los grandes vinos. Un ejemplo: Cuvelier Los Andes Wines de Mendoza (Clos de los Siete) y Château Léoville-Poyferré de Bordeaux. Le presentamos esta nota realizada por el escritor Christian Schiller, resultado de una visita a Bordeaux en la que compartió con Didier Cuvelier, el dueño de ambas empresas. A la familia Cuvelier pertenece el Château francés desde 1900, y en 1999 extendió su actividad a Mendoza (Argentina) como parte del emprendimiento Clos de los Siete, que encabeza el enólogo Michel Rolland. Su producción en territorio de Los Andes está dedicada a la elaboración de vinos premium y súper, con uvas de una finca de 70 has, en Valle de Uco. Producto de esta actividad en Argentina es el 100% Malbec llamado Cuvelier Los Andes / Gran Malbec (entre otros). En Château Léoville-Poyferré St. Julien en Bordeaux, la calificación es "2ième Gran Cru Classé". En la nota que le presentamos, nuestro colega y amigo Schiller les habla sobre la conversación que tuvo en el Château con el mismo Didier Cuvelier, quien le contó el origen de sus explotaciones, y detalla la visita a la propiedad. El material está en inglés, pero vale la pena repasarlo. Que lo disfrute.

www.diariodelvino.com
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The publication is based on: Château Léoville-Poyferré, Chateau Le Crock, Didier Cuvelier in Bordeaux and the Cuvelier Los Andes Wines in Argentina, a posting on schiller-wine (November 14, 2012)

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Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller with Lilian Barton-Sartorius at Ruth Chris Steakhouse in Washington DC

When my friend and wine journalist Panos Kakaviatos is in town, there is always a flurry of tastings taking place in Washington DC. This time, he took advantage of the presence of Lilian Barton-Sartorius (because of the UGCB North America Tour) and organized with fellow wine lovers, merchants, journalists and bloggers an extended blind tasting dinner of Châteaux Léoville-Barton and Langoa-Barton at Ruth Chris Steakhouse in Washington DC.

See here for more on the UGCB tasting:
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For other tastings organized by Panos Kakaviatos in the last few weeks, in which I participated:
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Picture: The Bottles

We tasted the wines blind in flights of three, except the 1989 of which there were two magnums. The 'gimmick' was guessing blind which wines were Langoa and which were Leoville, with only the vintages identified. In addition, Lilian Barton-Sartorius brought the 2011 Chateau Mauvesin-Barton.

Picture: Mingling before the Tasting

The company was terrific and included: Rutger De Vink (RDV Vineyards), David White (Terroirist),  Dave McIntyre (Washington Post and DM WineLine), Mark Wessels (MacArthur Beverages), Terrance Mason (MacArthur Beverages), Ben Giliberti (Calvert Woodley), Michael Sands (Calvert Woodley), Aaron Nix-Gomez (Hogshead – A Wine Blog), Raz Mariam Razavi (Wines by Raz) and Maria Denton (Moet Hennessey Portfolio Manager), to name a few.

The Barton Family

The Barton family is able to trace its Bordeaux roots all the way back to 1722. That was the year that Thomas Barton left Ireland for Bordeaux. Like many successful owners, Barton started out as a Bordeaux negociant.

The first foray into ownership for the Barton family was in St. Estephe, with Chateau Le Boscq in 1745, which was awarded Cru Bourgeois status in 1932. In 1995, the Barton family sold it to Dourthe.

Also in 1745, the Barton family partnered with another powerful Bordeaux family to form a Bordeaux wine negociant company, Barton and Guestier. It was controlled by the Barton family until the Seagram Group got control in 1986. Today, Barton and Guestier is part of the international wine and spirit company Diageo.

Pictures: Lilian Barton-Sartorius, Panos Kakaviatos, Maria Denton (Moet Hennessey Portfolio Manager) and Terrance Mason (MacArthur Beverages) (Source of second and third photo: Terrance Mason)

The next major purchase for the Barton family took place in 1821. That was the year they bought Chateau Langoa Barton. Following the purchase of Langoa Barton, they bought a second St. Julien estate: Culled from the vineyards of Château Leoville Las Cases, that estate became Chateau Leoville Barton, a deuxième cru en 1855. Interestingly, because no wine making facilities came with the purchase, they were forced to make the wines at Château Langoa Barton. Until today, production of both wines takes place at Langoa Barton.

When Ronald Barton, who had inherited the family’s property from his father, who was tragically killed in a hunting accident in the 1920's, died without an heir in 1986, his nephew Anthony took control of the family properties. Anthony had already moved from Ireland - where the family maintains a home - to Bordeaux in 1951.

Château Léoville-Barton

Château Léoville-Barton is a Deuxième Cru en 1855 in the Saint-Julien appellation.

There are now 47 hectares of vineyards at Château Léoville-Barton, planted with 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc. Vinification is performed in the cellar at Langoa-Barton, as there is in fact no château at Léoville-Barton.

The grand vin is Château Léoville-Barton, the second wine is La Reserve de Léoville-Barton. Total production is 20.000 cases.

Château Langoa-Barton

Château Langoa-Barton is a Troisième Cru en 1855 in the Saint-Julien appellation.

Located along the banks of the Gironde river, Langoa-Barton has 15 hectares under vine: 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot.

About 7,000 cases of Château Langoa-Barton are produced.

Château Mauvesin-Barton

In September 2011, the Barton family purchased an additional Bordeaux estate, Château Mauvesin, in Moulis. It is an estate with 48 hectares of vines in a single block surrounding the château. 40 of those hectares, which are planted with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in roughly equal measure, are in the Moulis appellation, the rest being Haut-Médoc. The property has been owned by the Baritault du Carpia family and their predecessors since the late 15th century. The imposing, classically proportioned château was built in 1853.

Pictures: At the Tasting (Source of first photo: Aaron Nix-Gomez, Hogshead – A Wine Blog)

When the Bartons took control of the property, the extensive cellars underwent a quick temporary renovation. The Bartons installed 22 new, squat stainless-steel vats in various sizes, allowing increased precision during vinification and blending. For the harvest, the Bartons brought in a new tractor that offloads the grapes by vibration, a vibrating sorting table, and an optical sorter—a rare sight in Moulis.

Anthony Barton

Anthony Barton was born and grew up in Ireland. After he got his educated in England, he headed to Uncle Ronald in Bordeaux in 1951. There, he started off in his family’s merchant firm of Barton and Guestier and met his future wife Eva, with whom he has 2 children. Athony and Eva Barton live at Chateau Langoa-Barton.

Anthony Barton has already transferred ownership to his daughter Lillian, who is married to Michel Sartorius.

Picture: Christian G.E. Schiller and Anthony Barton at the Fete de Bordeaux 2012

For more see: 
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Lilian, Mélanie and Damien Barton-Sartorius

Lilian Barton-Sartorius and Michel Sartorius have two children, both young adults studying to work in the wine industry. Daughter Melanie has completed studies in agriculture and enology in Burgundy and Bordeaux. She will be the first enologist in the Barton family, and plans to return to the family châteaus after a two-year stint at a Tuscan winery. Their son Damien also put in two years in agriculture school and is currently in business school.

Michel Sartorius takes great care of the ‘home' market where clients include many prestigious restaurants including La Tour d'Argent in Paris.

Pictures: Christian G.E. Schiller with Lilian Barton Sartorius and Mélanie Barton Sartorius in Washington DC at the UGCB Tasting

2011 Chateau Mauvesin Barton, Moulis en Medoc

This is the first vintage produced by the Barton family.

Medium-deep ruby in the glass, notes of red fruits, mocha and aromatic herbs on the nose, a mid-weight wine, lively on the palate.

Average price wine searcher: US$ 14

First flight – 2006, 2005, 2004

How best characterize the wines of Saint-Julien? Lilian said that in her view the wines of Saint-Julien have the charm and elegance of Margaux and the character and strength of Saint-Estephe.

At the estate level, the vineyards of Langoa Barton are on north-facing slopes at a slightly lower elevation than the south-facing slopes of Leoville Barton. With the water table at the same depth the vines of Leoville Barton must go deeper, through more layers, gaining complexity.

2006 Chateau Langoa-Barton, Saint-Julien

Good bright ruby-red in the glass, notes of cassis, tobacco leaf and minerals on the nose, good structure and good fruit on the palate.

Average price wine searcher: US$ 62

2005 Chateau Langoa-Barton, Saint-Julien

Good ruby-red in the glass, nice plummy notes on the nose, good structure, finishes with chewy tannins, still pretty closed.

Average price wine searcher: US$ 84

2004 Chateau Leoville-Barton, Saint-Julien

2004 was large in terms of quantity and overshadowed by both 2003 and 2005, Lilian said.

Good red-ruby in the glass, nice notes of black raspberry, black cherry and leather on the nose, lively finish.

Average price wine searcher: US$ 85

Second flight – 2000, 1999, 1998

Lilian explained that 1998 was an economic vintage as 1997 had been expensive. The 1999s went past unnoticed but are charming and drinkable.

2000 Chateau Langoa Barton, Saint-Julien

“The first of many vintages of the century” Panos said.

Good ruby-red in the glass, notes of tobacco and blackcurrant on the nose, well integrated tannins, further along in aging than I imagined.

Average price wine searcher: US$ 92

1999 Chateau Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien

Good ruby-red in the glass, a light, tight nose of dark red fruit and good scents, concentrated on the palate, with a great silky mouth feel, one of the best.

Average price wine searcher: US$ 92

1998 Chateau Langoa Barton, Saint-Julien

Good ruby-red in the glass, notes of  black cherry and cedar on the nose,  austere and rather unforthcoming, firm in the core but generally the most backwards of all the wines tasted.

Average price wine searcher: US$ 62

Third flight -- 1996, 1995, 1990

Lilian explained that the vintage of 1990 was atypical being so very hot and very dry. This can cause quite a problem when vegetation stops. Fortunately there were rains in mid-September after which the vines did something for a few weeks and all was fine.

Moving on, the estate lost money with the 1991 and 1992 vintages. They broke even in 1993, did better in 1994 then returned to a good footing in 1995 and 1996. Lilian felt the wines of 1995 are lovely nice wines, always have been and still are. Those of 1996 show more power and need time to age.

1996 Chateau Langoa Barton, Saint-Julien

Good ruby-red in the glass, a delicate, slightly floral nose, coupled with gentle spice, lots of ripe tannins coat the mouth, firm wood towards the finish.

Average price wine searcher: US$ 87

1995 Chateau Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien

Good ruby-red in the glass, notes of tobacco, game and roasted nuts on the nose, on the palate black fruit flavors, ripe, tongue-coating tannins on the finish.

Average price wine searcher: US$ 98

1990 Chateau Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien

Dark ruby color with a red edge in the glass, subtle aromas of black cherry and plum, with hints of mineral and smoke on the nose, firm tannins and a long finish. This powerful wine has lots of life left and is youthful in a sense. Beautiful.

Average price wine searcher: US$ 186

Fourth flight -- 2008, 2009, 2010

We circled back to the youngest wines. Lilian felt that 2008 was a lovely, supple vintage of which there is not much to talk about. It was a particularly great value for those who purchased en primeur. The 2009 will drink earlier whereas the 2010 will need longer. It has big tannins, big alcohol and is quite charming but she is afraid it might close up soon.

2008 Chateau Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien

Bright ruby in the glass, notes of tobacco, cassis and minerals on the nose, red fruit mix with acidity on the palate as gentle tannins came out, leaving a dry sensation in the finish.

Average price wine searcher: US$ 81

2009 Chateau Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien

Bright ruby in the glass, attack of oak, cassis, minerals and fresh, juicy blackberries on the nose, a powerful, full bodied, concentrated wine, will need many years to round fully into form.

Average price wine searcher: US$ 134

2010 Chateau Langoa Barton, Saint-Julien

Good ruby in the glass, notes of plum, balsamic vinegar and aromatic herbs on the nose, on the palate, the fruit is young with a cinnamon, spicy structure.

Average price wine searcher: US$ 74

Final Wine: 1989 Chateau Langoa Barton, Saint-Julien (Magnum) 

Good ruby-red in the glass, herbal notes on the nose, graceful and still lively fruit on the palate, long finish.

Average price wine searcher: US$ 77

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Wine Consumption by Country: Total and Per Capita

Source: Economist, Mach 22, 2012

The Economist published a very interesting chart some time ago, with the leading wine consuming countries in the world, still and sparkling. The chart includes the wine consumption per capita, for 2011 and 2007, and the total wine consumption, for 2011.

Who Consumes the Wine?

The US is the largest wine market in the world. Americans consumed more wine in 2011 than any other country. France, Italy and Germany came very close, with each market accounting for around 300 million cases of wine per year. 

Whereas France and Italy have a high (and declining) per capita consumption, as does Germany, although a bit lower, the US consumes very little per capita (only a bit more than 10 liters), but there are a large number of American consumers. In addition, American wine consumption per capita is growing.

At about half of the market size of the leading 4 countries, the UK and China follow. The UK is a large consumer but produces almost nothing itself. All is imported. The per capita consumption is sizable, but on a declining trend.

By contrast, the Chinese per capita consumption is dismal, but the number of consumers is huge. Furthermore, per capita consumption is on an upward trend. If the per capita consumption increases just by as much as – for example – the Australian per capita consumption increased between 2007 and 2001, China would become the largest wine market in the world, overtaking the US, France, Italy and Germany.

Then follow 2 countries with a total consumption of around 100 million cases, Argentina and Russia. Russia produces almost nothing itself, while Argentina produces almost 90% of what it consumes.

Next are 4 countries with an overall market of around 40 to 50 million cases: Portugal, with a very high per capita consumption, and Australia, Canada and Brazil. The latter is again a bit like the case of China – low per capita consumption and large population.

Finally, around 20 to 30 million cases: Switzerland, a high per capita consumption country, which also produces wine, of which it exports very little; Denmark, also a high per capita consumption country, which imports everything; and Japan, a low per capita consumption country.

In terms of global growth: the US, China and Russia are driving growth in global wine consumption, which has increased by 3.5% since 2007. The old world is a drag on growth, as per capita consumption is declining and the population stagnating.

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